Winter Graded Ground
In climbing terminology, Grade I ground is taken to mean "uncomplicated average angled snow climbs normally having no pitches but which may present cornice difficulties or have significant or potentially hazardous run-outs", normally considered to be gully climbs. No 4 Gully, Aladdin's Couloir or Parsley Fern Gully are prime examples. However, for the Winter Mountain Leader scheme it is best to think of Grade I ground in a more typical hill walking setting, where it is taken to mean "snow-covered ground, often with easy angled steps of ice, neve or rock on which a fall or slip could have potentially serious consequences". Climbs more difficult than Grade I are more than likely to include this standard of terrain on the approach, at the top or at other places on the route.
In other words, Grade I ground need not only be encountered in long gullies but could be sections of open slope which require techniques in addition to those normally associated with walking. It is not necessarily the angle of the ground or the length of the slope that is important, but the type of ground, the quality of the snow covering it, and the consequences of a slip.
The requirement of ten Grade I or above-named UK and Irish winter climbs or equivalent mountaineering routes for assessment is to ensure candidates are comfortable and experienced on this type of terrain.
It ensures that you have practised many of the security on steep ground techniques taught during the training course. Your steep ground experience will also help develop your decision making in terms of route choice and the suitability or otherwise for your groups.
The need for experience of a range of mountain terrain in winter cannot be over-emphasised. It is one thing to know the quirks of a particular mountain from past experience, but a very different thing to encounter them for the first time en route and have to make decisions about how best to proceed. The scheme requires you to be technically competent and safe using only the equipment that a leader and group would carry for a winter walking expedition - for instance, rope, sling, karabiner, ice axe and lightweight shovel (and possibly a Deadman snow anchor). Assessment does not require the use of technical winter climbing gear such as nuts, camming devices, ice screws or rock pegs. During the training course you will be taught security on snow and ice techniques using the walking equipment outlined above.
The videos
Have a look at the videos on our
YouTube channel which cover various parts of the Winter Mountain Leader syllabus.
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Join nowThe Book - Winter Skills
Winter Skills has been written specifically for people pursuing Mountain Training's winter leadership qualifications and it includes essential tips and information for those who wish to lead in the hills in winter as well as being a useful learning aid for recreational walkers. The book is split into six parts: the winter environment, basic winter skills, snow and avalanche, security on steep ground, winter climbing and winter incidents. Its functional design with easy-reference pages, striking illustrations and images make this book an indispensable guide to the skills required for winter hill walking.
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